Matopo’s Zimbabwe 1

This story started pre-covid where the experience to ride the Matopo’s with Gerald de Kock was muted. Excited for a new experience as well as a journey into past memories, Tim, Steve, Andrew and I paid our fees excited for a cycling and cultural adventure to the beautiful Matopos. Tim and Steve lived in Bulawayo in their younger days and my last visit in 1980 when looking after a farm in Nyamandlovu.

Covid intervened so the original ride was cancelled. Flights were cancelled and refunded. After Covid, it then became a matter of trying to fix a date which was finally set for 7 to 13 September, 2023.

Unsure of final arrangements but a commitment that the ride was on, the four us re-booked our flights with Airlink routing via Johannesburg to Bulawayo. With Airlink having smaller planes our next concern was to make sure that our bikes were able to come with us. In the end we only really confirmed this when our bikes were allowed to be checked in with us and they arrived in Bulawayo on the same flight!

In the end it was a small group Tim, Steve, Andrew, Gerald and I flying up. The tour organisers Rohan and Goeff drove up with vehicle. They met us at the Bulawayo airport after a fairly uneventful flight up via Johannesburg.

After the vehicle was packed with our kit and bikes, we proceeded to the Bulawayo Club where we were spending the first night. It was so strange arriving at this iconic place and all around the entrance life was ongoing with street traders and traffic chaos.

Arriving outside the Bulawayo Club with pavement full of street traders

The Bulawayo Club was founded in 1895 and steeped in history – have a look at the link. Opened in 2008 to non-members, we had the opportunity to experience one of Bulawayo oldies. It really is a beautiful blast from the past with many iconic memories of Rhodesian and Zimbabwean politicians and sports greats. A late lunch with our first Zambezi beer before a welcome afternoon snooze.

Bulawayo Club Entrance and reception
Bulawayo Club Entrance – a step in history
Bulawayo Club Centre Court where we had lunch and breakfast
Lunch with Goeff, Gerald and Rohan – the organisers
Our first of many Zambezi beers for lunch

In the evening we were allowed in the huge bar for drinks. As the Zambezies flowed the broadcasting, sports, school and other stories were shared with increasing intensity and hilarity. I had no chance and was duly entertained. Eventually we were shuttled off to the sports lounge on the first floor for dinner – I don’t think cyclists in our best jeans and T shirts were suitably attired for the club pub and dining area for any length of time.

After going past memory lane of sports greats and history we were served a delicious 3 course meal. We were joined by Gavin Stephens – it is his family farm where we were going to stay in the Matopos. His father bought the property in the Matopos in the early 1980’s after independence when most other people were leaving the country. Over dinner he shared experiences of trying to run a business with dual Zim and US Dollar currencies including a period of hyperinflation. It really makes our single Rand currency so simple in SA.

The evening was the beginning of Gavin passionately sharing his wealth of knowledge and stories from history to battles, rock art, geology, fauna and flora (to name a few) of Bulawayo and the Matopos over the next 4 days. What came across so strongly was Gavin and his families absolute love for the country and its people. Gavin and his brother Des guided us for 3 days on their beautiful Camp Dwala and surrounds.

Gavin and Des Stephens
An idea of currencies in Zim – but most purchases in US Dollars

Next story on Matopos Zimbabwe 2


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