Transpirenaica Daily Notes, Stats & Chats

Notes that I made each day with stats and some of the group messages.

Day 1 – 16 May

Breakfast with Phillip at hotel.

Phillip took bike and other bag from me to look after.

He helped with trains – I owe him 14 Euros

Uneventful train trip to Llanca.

Rode to the ocean to put my feet and bike in the Mediterranean sea for good luck.

Good weather 20-30 degrees but quite strong winds.

Climbed straight from the village. Quite dry, rural, olives and grapes.

No accommodation in village at end of day. Local hotel closed and hostel fully booked. Had to ride 10km uphill to get room at a Hostel – Santuari de la Mare de Deu.

Learnt my lesson about or booking hotels.

Had some beers and a good supper. Look forward to a good sleep.

Day 2 – 17 May

Had to get bike out the laundry then went to what I thought was the start but I was in the wrong village.

Cycled to Albanya (start point of days route) and had to wait for breakfast. Found a local café in the back street which was open. They made me an omelette sandwich and coffee. Met David – Spanish but lives in Switzerland.

Gave me nut mix which was amazing.

First climb went well and stunning afterwards going into the valley. Then a long ride and some steep climbs. Rest of the day hard.

Found hotel Hotel Sant Roc, showered and then pasta and beers.

Couldn’t sleep after washing so walked the town and got food for tomorrow.

Now 9:16 and going to try and get some sleep.

Day 3 – 18 May

Had a great brekkie at hotel with buffet laid out.

Nice chilly early start up the valley. The snow mountains came into view on the long climbs.

As I got to the top of major climb a whole lot of horse riders came by.

Long decent to To es de Freser where I had a coke and a croissant. People not very friendly.

Then a proper climb out where I walked all the black stuff. Was super steep. Eventually getting to Planoles. Met a Spanish rider at the square which was the finish of their race. He has travelled a lot in SA and Namibia. Very chatty and bought me a beer. Then had a 6 km uphill ride to hotel Cal Pastor but also covering next days route. Managed to get a beer and pasta to eat. Very rural and not much to do.

Day 4 – 19 May stayed at Hotel Cal Pastor.

Had to navigate with phone on Kamoot as Garmin charging damaged so not working.

Hotel had no breakfast until late so started an early climb – hotel was on the way. Off the road through beautiful forest to snow line and first ski resort.

Expected to find something to eat but nothing so survived the day on an apple, nuts and jelly babies.

Downhill also through the snow from first resort. Super steep.

The big climbs from next resort where I walked all the black climbs. Didn’t have the energy.

then across to Coll de Pall and stunning downhill into Baga.

No one reception at Hotel Cal Batista so went to get food. When I got back they checked me in. Had pasta and beer for food before chilling.

Had a walk around town but not much happening.

As I was trying to sleep bedding smelt of smoke. Also a big Spanish domestic going on.

No breakfast in the morning as promised.

Day 5 – 20 May stayed at Hotel Cal Batista.

Hotel had no breakfast.

Found a coffee shop for toast and also able to buy bananas and apples so at least I had food.

Chatted to an American couple that have hiked through most of the Pyrenees. Not an ounce of fat on them.

Had to navigate with phone on Kamoot as Garmin charging damaged so not working.

Amazing 3 hour climb through forest then to main col

Cold down and mtb section before hitting the road

Valleys stunning before next long tar road climb. On way down on small jeep tracks through cow country and farm before ending upon San Tir. Nothing there so rode side roads to apartment in Arfa – Casa Casteller.

Well received and also taken to shops by now owners Casa Castellar. A whole apartment to myself for two days.

Evening walk. Arfa Town famous for storing ice. Not much happening here.

21 May Rest day to get Garmin in Andorra. Also bars and electrolytes.

Day 6 – 22 May stayed at Casa Castellar.

Rained at night but clear morning with mist rising out of the valley.

Super steep climbs where I walked quite a bit.

Then long plantation trails and forest riding until coming out and seeing stunning Mountain View’s.

Still a lot more climbing to threshold and then a complete change of scenery to very steep valleys and decent. Decent down on Jeep track trails very stunning.

Got to village early but check in at 4 . Had a coffee, beer and large sandwich before checking in at Hotel Lamoga. I was the only person there.

No real restaurants so bought some beers, nuts on yoghurt and early night.

Day 7 – 23 May. Stayed at Hotel Lamoga.

Breakfast at 8:30. First eggs and coffee with a huge croissant. Very nice.

Then long climb on narrow tar. Then into forest roads coming out at hut. Beautiful.

Kept climbing to snow line and riding in high mountains. Cold and snow.

Then insane switchback decent into valley to small village and hotel Val Vosca down the road.

Statue of cyclist before decent and chatted to guy from Uk on a gravel bike. Don’t know how he rode those roads.

Found hotel Val Vosca I think I was the only client. Had some beers and an early supper. Nice hamburger and chips.

Kept bike in the room. Washed it with my socks as properly dirty after the snow.

Day 8 – 24 May stayed at Hotel Val Vosca.

Lovely brekkie to start and chilly in the valley. Stunning ride up for an hour until goat rock tracks over volcanic ground. Washed away and stones for the next hour to get over the top and down.

Then 3 smaller climbs in rural country. Felt much like a traverse day. Got much hotter 32 degrees than forecast.

Arrived and enjoyed beers and sandwiches at a restaurant on the square. Found hotel Cotori in same plaza. A sleep and evening walk.

Supper at 8:30. – simple pizza.

Chatted to 4 bikers out from the UK and early to bed.

Day 9 – 25 May. Stayed at Hotel Cotori located on the square.

Cool morning climb out straight after bridge following canal.

Stunning climbs up and through forest to top of first major climb.

Down the pass to jeep track turnoff badly damaged by rain. Rocky climb up. Got passed by motorbikes to the top of highest point which was green grass and non-event. Rocky downhills and had to go slowly. Some parts very steep.

Met Francisco along the way. Organiser of Trans Pyrenees race in 2 weeks time. Had a chat.

Onto main road then a turn and river crossing. Then along a hardly walkable footpath. Really wasn’t necessary.

Back onto main road with tunnels then a right turn at electricity plant. Some small climbs and forest back to main road. Then back road into town.

Immediately found beer and had a huge hamburger and chips at a small restaurant in town.

Afterwards to hotel Los Nogales. Washed clothes and cleaned bike.

In the evening walked around town and had another beer at same restaurant, only place open. Spanish music and dominoes.

536km 55% of km done

14 591m of 28514 – 54% of m climbed.

Very friendly host that provided a lovely breakfast in the morning.

Day 10 – 26 May overnight at Hotel Los Nogales

Beautiful climbs up through forests with over 1200m in first 25 km. Also single track through the forest for sections.

Met Belgian rider on his way Slovenia. A 6 month tour.

Hard and gravelly down with some very rocky and technical single track.

From the bottom to next village and then into the reserve following the river canyon the whole way up. Absolutely stunning.

Then turned left for another 5 km to hotel. This was closest hotel but 5km off route with a large climb.

Arrived at Casa Lisa and nice open garden eating area with other cyclists. Immediately ordered a beer, had a lovely salad, sausage and chips before showering.

Day 11 – 27 May from Buerba to Nerin (Start) to Fiscal. Stayed at Casa Lisa in Buerba

Had a restless night but nice breakfast and coffee at 8 from a very friendly host.

Backtracked the last 5 km of yesterday to join the Nerin route.

Got to Nerin after about an hour to start the day. From there it was gravel track for a few hours with an increasingly stunning view.

From highest point stopped for Apple and rest but later (walked to lookout)also found amazing viewpoints of mountains, snow waterfalls etc.

Then a long and hard decent down some quite technical, before reaching the blue blue river. A bit of a climb out.

It was then tar road. Stopped at a village to get a coke and some supplies. Wasn’t sure what I would get further on. Tar all the way to Fiscal. Stay at Hostel Rio Ara in Fiscal along the main road. After a shower had beer and something to eat. After a sleep a walk around town, not much. Managed to put my legs in ice cold river which was very nice.

Day 12 – 28 May from Fiscal to Las Margas. Hotel Casbas.

Not a great a breakfast but headed out on a cool morning.

Most of the climbing through natural forests. Was very peaceful and very stunning. Roads had been seriously muddy and not sure how one gets through when wet.

Popped out what I thought was top of the climb at a hut but then still had approx 150 m to go. Met some bikers at water trough. Then to the top met another walker. Not very friendly. Stopped for an apple out of the wind met two other e-bikes who I overtook again. Proved how hard it is if you have too much baggage.

Then crappy dried mud tracks down also past cows. To stony and gravelly forest rides. All quite hard work into the valley. Finished in the town. Hotel close but not open.

Went up the road to camping restaurant – left because no service. Rode 5 km into nearest town for beer and food and back to hotel which was now open.

Washing showered and chilling.

About to kill weed eater – making noise outside window!

Had a supper and breakfast in the morning.

Day 13 – 29 May las Margas to Aragues del Porto.

Going to avoid the second big climb as it is an up and down. There is no accommodation in Del Porto so going to carry on to next days ride to Hecho where I can get accommodation. By Hostal Casa Blasquico in Hecho.

First climb up out of the village was great. Nice to get back into the mountains through forest trails. After the top they took me down a trail that had been completely washed away and trees over the route. Walked most of the way. From river had to carry bike. Nav extremely difficult. When I popped out at junction was pretty pissed off and glad I didn’t do the view climb.

Valley trails and some steep climbs with temp in high 30’s. Found a village and had proper meal and a beer (first looked closed and was quite desperate) – I certainly think this meal saved me for later. Went to the village finish day 13 and felt ok but as planned, no accommodation so carried on.

After village a massive climb that I walked most of the way. Temps close to 40 deg.

The way down road in very bad way and really struggled. Then a turnoff on a black climb that I walked. Could hardly find the trail rocks and steep. Really not fun. Then coming down badly damaged track and trail from mud. Then trail and track disappeared completely which had washed away. Eventually popped out but not fun. Then followed route and they started black trails shit again. Saw that I could back-track to roads and get to overnight stay. Now getting late and a long day. Eventually got here.

Day 14 – 30 May Araguesdel Porto now Hecho to Isaba

Casa Rural Elurkoia booked in Isaba

Not much ride commentary in the last few days. Been trying to absorb it all. There has been a definite shift in terrain and also trail routes in the last two days. I am so grateful I did the hard stuff of day 14 yesterday. I think if that was part of today it would have been seriously tough.

Part of such a tour is to get from one point to another. Here the routes are stunning. As was today’s meander following the river, and had to swim. Felt so free and unrushed. The going down what were typically Jeep tracks on previous days- in all sorts of states and never easy- they now including down routes that are completely un rideable, rocky and even hard to walk on. Fallen trees, mud, and just hard. Nav extremely difficult at times. These trails might have been great at one stage but are unmaintained and crappy. So I feel they are not necessary for such a trip and why have they only appeared now?

On the balance it is an amazing journey and loving it. I can’t believe how time has flown.

I see tomorrow a proper ride but hope we can stick to decent trails 🙏

Just having a quiet ponder 😉

Day 15 – 31 May Isaba to Orreaga / Roncesvalles

Hotel Passda Des Roncevales

Day 16 – 1 June Orreagga to Etxalar

Had a good breakfast and left just after 8. A proper climb out then over the top to see clouds in the valley. A very long decent through forests and into the mist – this all now in France. Followed river to hydroelectric plant before starting second climb to Spain. This went well with most in the mist. At the top made a nav error and continued with tarred road. No errors on Garmin. After a shortish decent then had a long climb – lots of walking. Then to Jeep track and eventually to walking routes all in the mist. Happened to check Kamoot and saw that I was in the middle on no- where. Thick mist and tried to find my way to the route but ended up at a cliff face so decided safest to back-track. Ended up back in France. Found a coffee spot near rejoining the route and starting climb 2 again.

Arcane top, with less mist, realised where I missed the turn down jeep track. Hard riding all the way down then into small town where I bought a coke.

Then 3rd climb from town, past shooting club then high into the mountains. Near the top they showed a trail but it was different to walking trail or jeep track. Searched and climbed around for about 30 min then decided to go back to the top. Followed a track back to my route. In y e meantime punctured twice. It was misty, wet and cold and was very isolated.

Then followed tracks with another climb which never ended.

Eventually descended from high mountains reaching one village to official village. But hotel 4 km out of town so had to ride there. Was properly tired binge time I got here.

Day 17 – 2 June Etcalar to San Sebastián

Got up early to clean and check bike.

A decent brekkie and then headed off in the rain.

Joined the route half way but still had a decent climb to get there. Rain pants too hot and gillet on the climb. Coffee when I joined the route which was nice.

Then quite a long ride also be harbour to official finish but wasn’t really much.

Ride to San Sebastián which was hectic! Not used to all the traffic and riding on highways.

Finally got there and put my feet in the Atlantic Ocean at life guard hut.

Checked in hotel and did some washing.