Desert Dash My Story

It has always been a dream of mine to do the Desert Dash (DD) solo but never thinking that I was fit enough or able to get an entry. The Desert Dash is a Mountain Bike race in Namibia from Windhoek to Swakopmund. It is 397 km long with 3507m of climbing and has to be completed in 24 hours. It is possible to enter as solo (doing the race alone), a relay team of 2 or relay teams of 4. The most popular entries are relay teams of 2 and 4. Solo is really only done by extreme or mad cyclists.

Kim – planting the seed.

The Desert Dash solo was one of Kim’s many achievements. When we were chatting on the Burra Kim mentioned that solo entries were normally available. The week after the Burra on 23 June, looking for things to do and new adventures, I went onto the Desert Dash website. Before I knew it, I had a paid solo entry for 8 December 2023. Not really knowing what I was letting myself in for but also thinking that this might be my best opportunity to do this race. From that moment on the planning process and angels support started. Kim, Rhino riders, Long Ride Addicts Group (Namibia) and others sharing information, experiences and planning for such long-distance events. The Burra experience was a real help understanding many of the mental challenges. I knew that I had to sort out headlights, nutrition, and weather dependent kit. One never stops researching, asking, and testing when preparing for such long-distance events. The Rhino Run Entree was going to be a test as well.

Anet and Amos – going back to roots, half DD and support.

Anet, whom I had also met in Portugal, was interested in DD maybe with her brother Amos as a team of 2. For her and Amos it was a chance to go back to their Namibian roots having lived in Windhoek and Walvis Bay and holidaying in Hardap. Amos felt that he wasn’t fit enough but willing to come as back-up and support. Around September the DD organisers released a new Half Dash for riders over 50. Anet entered, Amos was also available to do the backup role and they both had a chance to revisit old memories of Namibia. I always wanted to see other parts of Namibia as part of this trip. Quickly dates and accommodation were agreed and booked. Having three of us share the Namibian experience and adventure was instrumental in being able to finish the DD.

Covid and RhinoRun

A complete spanner in the works was getting Covid on my return from Germany on 29 September. The first week was absolute hell after which I slowly recovered. Many warnings about starting training too early, getting sick again and possible long covid scared the crap out of me. After 2-3 weeks in October, I felt myself getting better. I started with slow coffee rides building up to longer rides. To be honest, it was mostly a function of dealing with exhaustion and headaches which determined my riding. It took the whole of October to recover and get my riding up to speed.

I was supposed to do the Rhino Run Entree from Plettenburg Bay to Stellenbosch starting on 17 October. I was really looking forward to the Rhino and it was part of my equipment, nutrition, and hydration planning. I was however still recovering from COVID and decided to withdraw from Rhino as a rider. With serious FOMO I did still go to Plet to do back-up for Kim, James, and other Rhino riders. This again gave me an opportunity to also chat and learn from these experienced warriors on how to tackle such long-distance events.

Training

For my training I tried to get in 55 km rides on Tuesday and Thursday with longer 85 to 90 km rides on the weekend. I did some longer rides in the preparation for Rhino. All the information that I got was that rides of 5-6 hours where sufficient. Possibly day after day and in different conditions or times of day. I also tested nutrition and light options and felt that I was on the right track. I started tapering two weeks before DD with only some short rides to keep the legs moving and coffee of course.

As the race got closer, DD spreadsheets from the Long Ride Addicts were worked out to determine average speeds and arrival times in order to make the 24 hour cut-off. Suddenly the reality struck me of having to maintain an average speed, with stops, of close to 17 km/hr. With warnings of not starting too fast and thinking that one can make up time as the last two stages are all downhill!?

To Windhoek we go

Anet flew to Cape Town on Tuesday 5th December. I met her and Amos to pack the car as I wanted both bikes in the Fortuner (car worked so well on this trip) in expectation of lots of dirt roads and dust. A quick beer and supper before going home to do my final packing as all my kit was still lying in heaps trying to decide what to take – seems to be the norm for such events. I made a last-minute request to Long Ride addicts to find out about predicted weather (they have had rain in last weeks) as well as provisions at waterpoints and checkpoints. Response, weather could be cold and misty at night, hot during day, possible rain. I packed kit for all conditions.

At 6 o’clock on Wednesday morning I picked up Anet and Amos and North we went. We shared driving, had the first taste of endless roads and temperatures in the high 30’s. Lunch in Springbok after struggling to find anything decent, before crossing the border at Noordoewer. It was uneventful but extremely hot and windy. Heading north past Grunau we got to our overnight stop at The White House around 4 o’clock in the afternoon. A beautiful old farmhouse where we stayed with other travellers some also doing 4 team DD. We found the old dam that was converted to a pool for a well needed swim and beers. We soaked up the amazing vastness, sounds, colors and smells of this remote oasis. Some beers, wine, stories from the farmer and others before a quick meal and well-earned sleep.

An early start after a quick breakfast and we headed north to Hardap on the outskirts of Mariental where Anet and Amos went down memory lane finding their aunt and uncle’s old house close to the irrigation scheme farming projects. We arrived in Windhoek around 2 o’clock and decided to have a quick lunch before registration at 3. A couple of necessities such as purchasing a sim card (esims don’t work in Namibia) and then registration. Things were getting real.

We checked in at the Arebbusch Lodge which is about 4 km from the start so very convenient. We started building our bikes and preparing our kit. Major problem, we had left Anet pedals in the box, so Anet and Amos headed off looking for parts. It was a success and they ended up getting some bike maintenance too.

For supper we went to the famous Joe’s Beer house which is a place to behold and icon of Windhoek. Also hectically busy. Quick alcohol-free beer and supper before heading off to sleep.

Race Morning

I had slept well and was hungry for breakfast at 7. Normal oats, honey fruit and coffee as always. We had to check out before 12 before but race start at 14:30. I had my bike and kit was ready and felt the race needed to start now! We went to the mall for last minute eye drops and I decided on a peanut butter – banana smoothie around 11 in place of lunch – it was delicious but very rich and I feel was a problem later. We checked out and sat around under the shade at Arebbusch with temperatures now close to 30’s. I must say this waiting was a test of patience. Eventually at 1 o’clock I decided to ride to the start and wait there and at least get into the vibe and meeting other riders. I hydrated with water and apples.

Stage 1

Distance 101 km, 1107m climbing with water points at 32 km and 65 km.

There was a ceremonial start from the mall with a short ride to the bridge on the main highway where we started officially at 14:30. 200 Solo riders with some real lean and mean racing snakes. The first stretch out of town was a tar road and then up the Kupferberg Pass. I was wearing a buff in preparation for the dust. The weather was slightly cloudy but hot. On the climb an angel was handing out ice which I immediately packed into my buff. The main peloton headed off into the distance while I tried to pace myself well aware of being warned not to go too fast. The rest of the field quickly split up into small groups where we tried to ride together as much as possible.

The first waterpoint (WP1) was very welcome with delicious watermelon, potatoes, coke and water. Aware of not wasting time I quickly filled up my USWE backpack with water, water bottle with SKRATCH, ate, drank and on my way. I found myself riding mostly alone trying to keep a steady pace. Bunches were scattered and either riding too fast or slow. After WP1 the dreaded headwinds started but I was riding comfortably and actually averaging over 20km/hr with the climbs and wind. At some point the buff and peak cap came off, it was just too hot, and the dust was not a problem at this point.

The route profiles was so deceptive as they give the impression of downhill. It is a 200m drop over 50 km so there is certainly no feeling of going down at all.

WP2 was really great with glasses cleaning, a quick restock and on my way into the headwind. But for last 20 km of Stage1 my headspace was really bad and I felt awful. I used a gel which seemed to make things worse. I was riding well within myself, mostly alone and into the wind. I got to Check Point 1 (CP1) at sunset and in a very bad headspace. No back-up support as Amos could only support from CP2. There road was full of support cars for 4 team riders so all a bit chaotic. I must have drunk at least a litre of water trying to work out what to do. I lay down for a few minutes and gave myself a pep talk. I managed to find potato and carrot salads and fresh stuff which was at least edible. After what seemed like a long time but realistically was only about 5 minutes, I was ready to hit the road again. In retrospect, I think the richness of the morning smoothie was a problem for my stomach to digest and I therefore needed the water on top of my normal hydration.

Stage 2

Distance 76 km, 1397m climbing with water points at  131 km. At 174 km total distance.

I switched my lights on and headed through the team changing chaos of CP1 and up the first climb which started just after the checkpoint. I was still riding directly into the wind but now an added dimension of night riding and of dust. All the 4 rider team support vehicles were on the same road and passed by continually creating huge dust storms where it was impossible to see at times. The buff came back on to try and help breathing but this was not fun. In addition, this stage had the most climbing. It felt as if I never stopped climbing on this stage at all.

The WP3 now had team riders come through so they were not as well stocked but ok. As hard as this section was with wind, dust and climbing, I slowly got my mojo back. I was passing riders, and I was mostly keeping to my own steady pace. It was all dirt road and as I said, dust, dust and more dust.

I arrived at CP2 around 1 in the morning, about an hour ahead of my planned time to meet the 24 cut-off.

Amos was there to sort out lube, refill all water and hydrate and he had apples (Woolies apples heaven sent) and muffins. They had advertised toasted sandwiches which I tried but could only manage one bite they were so bad. CP2 was chaos, the tracking system wasn’t working and food there was terrible. I was now really concerned that I wasn’t able to get enough food in for another 12 hours of riding. Note to self – always make sure you have your own stuff with you.

This was also Anet’s starting point for the Half Dash and she had left at midnight apparently barely staying awake. It had been a long day for her getting to CP2 and the wait for midnight start.

Stage 3

Distance 87 km, 308m climbing with water points at  218 km. At 264 km total distance.

After the chaotic stop I headed off into the night but feeling good. The cars were no longer there and the wind had died down. The route profile gives the impression of some downhill, but I truly didn’t find any. It also came with the introduction of soft sand which became extremely prevalent requiring softer tire pressures and some walking.

I seemed to get into a rhythm and was riding strongly passing quite a few riders. Team riders came past at higher speeds. With my focus on the light in front of me, I was really imagining myself riding next to a plantation of trees – memories of Burra. It is really amazing how one’s senses work when riding at night. I wasn’t sleeping tired and never hallucinated, here I think my Burra experience helped enormously.

The weather was kind to us on this stage. There was no predicted mist and I only wore an extra Gillet. I missed a turn before WP4 and had a little wipe-out turning around. WP4 was disappointing but restocked as much as possible.

Having ridden through the night and really feeling good, I arrived at CP3 just after sunrise. Angel Amos now had a hot coffee, hot oats with honey and apples waiting. So good to eat real food. With the restocking and lube, I headed off again not quite believing that I was an hour ahead of target time and feeling good.

Stage 4

Distance 84 km, 286m climbing with water points at  312 km. At 348 km total distance.

Again, when looking at route profiles it gives the impression of a little climbing and mainly downhill. It really never felt like downhill at all. There were long road stretches (24 km) and a long section along WP5 that just followed a pipeline and was endless and not much fun. I was again riding alone at my own pace.

This stage also goes through the renown Moon Landscape, which is exactly that, very barren, endless, stunning and beautiful.

Temperatures were now lower 30’s with some long climbs. I rode and chatted to Eddie whom I had met at Trans Portugal. This helped pass the time. He was struggling with his chain and Garmin. There were sandy sections near the beginning, but the stage ended going down the stunning Goanikontes Pass. I had left Eddie behind, and I was now feeling strong. I arrived at CP4 an hour ahead of my planned time and Amos ready for duty with water, apples and fruit. In the heat the fresh fruit was the best.

I was starting to worry as I now had 50 km to go. It was impossible to ride at faster average speed (as planned – downhill?!) but I was determined to make the cut-off. I needed to keep going and quickly headed off.

Stage 5

For this 50 km stage with 308m of climbing, all team riders have to re-group and ride as a team.

Temperatures now in mid 30’s while riding in the most barren, moon like, volcanic sandy desert. It seemed endless. We had to wind our way through sandy valleys with short sharp climbs. By now the wind was also coming up.

But I felt surprisingly strong and was overtaking many groups of riders that were even walking the climbs. I was now extremely aware of the cut-off and that I needed to keep moving.

After the desert section they took us through horrible rocky sections and sandpits that required walking and taking sand out of my shoes. This is near the Walvis Salt Holdings. There was a compulsory check and waterpoint and I was quickly on my way and heading into a strong headwind. There was no-one in sight and I knew I was in this alone. I however felt surprisingly strong and here again my previous experience helped.

There were some horrible sections along a railway track and then into town. I was now flying, determined to make it and couldn’t believe how strong I felt.

Anet and Amos were there to meet me at the finish of an amazing ride with 30 minutes to spare before cut-off.

Anet so well done on finishing Half Dash 217 km in 12h33! Solid riding and stayed awake.

A celebratory beer, shower and medal ceremony allowed the reality of the last 24 hours to sink in. I felt surprisingly good and well pleased.

All the planets aligned

Finishing 394.6 km, 3507m of climbing in 23h27.55min at an average speed of 16.82 km/hr. Only 120 out of 200 solo riders finished and was 4th in 60+ category.

I could only have achieved the DD after so many things coming together at the right time after an unbelievable year. The support from Monica and Amelia – they have been my rock. The MTB rides and races this year but experience from Trans Portugal and Burra was huge. The angels, Kim, Anet, Amos, Stu, Amri, Rhino Riders, Long Range Addicts and many more. Family, cycling group and close friends who have supported me through this all.

I could so relate to this paragraph written by Natalie, a Munga finisher in her Muga Doolhof Diaries – 12 December. Natalie, I hope you don’t mind.

You are stronger than you think, but only as strong as you believe. Will you give up when things get tough, or will you find a way? Are you defiant or defeated? This race (for me DD) brings out the best of us and the worst of us. It shows you who cares and who doesn’t. It shows you what you’re really capable of, and that with a little bit of help from friends, you can do amazing things.

Swakopmund, Walvis Bay and Sandwhich Harbour

After an average dinner we were off to bed as none of us had slept and fatigue was settling in.

I woke up on Sunday feeling sore but again surprisingly good. After a full breakfast we had to test the local German coffee and bakery for treats including an amble through town. But no visit to this part of the world is complete without a visit to Hentiesbaai – fishing heaven. On the way to Henties a stop at a vibrant Mile 14 pub – known as Windpomp 14 – for lunch, beers and live music in the middle of nowhere. We rounded the evening with drinks on the jetty and an amazing seafood supper at The Tug restaurant.

Monday was a pre-booked trip to the iconic must do Sandwich Harbour. We rushed to Walvis Bay for breakfast, coffee and then meet our tour guide JP at 8. He had the original v6 Landrover, leather covered seats and after a quick coffee, off we went to beat the tides in order to follow the coastal route. The route took as part the Walvis Bay Salt production with many flamingos and some pelicans in the evaporation pans. We followed the seashore reaching the Namib-Naukluft Park after which no more fishing is allowed. After a particularly narrow section between beautiful dunes and the sea we could relax with another coffee and just allow ourselves to soak of up the beauty of it all. Eventually after riding into the back of the dunes we came to the high point with a beautiful view of the bay and lagoon of Sandwich Harbour (we could unfortunately not get there by vehicle). Walks in the dunes and many pictures before some more dune riding ending at another viewpoint for a desert bubbles and lunch. Taking the back route home through the dunes finding Tom the desert gecko – Pachydactylus rangei, the Namib sand gecko. An amazing trip arriving back in Walvis around 3, some reminiscing for Anet and Amos and back for supper on the Pier at Swakop.

Sossusvlei, Sesriem and Desert Quiver Camp.

The bikes were packed the night before so an early start with destination Quiver Camp at Sossusvlei. Beautiful endless roads and a stop at Solitaire for apple tart and a beer. We arrived at the Desert Quiver camp around 2 in the afternoon. It was very hot, windy and lots of dust. We all collapsed for an afternoon nap before swimming in the pool and beers to cool down. It is self catering but we decided on a buffet meal at the lodge 4 km down the road. Gins, beer and wine of course.

Early start with a quick breakfast at the lodge before entering Sossusvlei gate and a 60km drive to the Deadvlei where about 900 years ago the dunes cut off the vlei from the river. A decent walk to the stunning vlei but avoided climbing the large dunes – the legs were certainly not up to that. After that some 4×2 rally driving to get to the end point of Sossusvlei, a stunning walk and partial dune climb. This area was breathtakingly beautiful with lots of pics of the red dunes.

A rally drive out of the vlei back to the gate and a short drive to the Sesriem canyon. Stunningly beautiful we took a walk through the canyon – we could not get to the end because of baboons. It was getting really hot so a restock and refuel before heading to Aus around 11.

Aus and Home

We arrived in Aus later in the afternoon and checked into a lovely self-catering “Orange House”. Beers and supper at the Aus Hotel and an early night – it was a long day. Early start in the morning and we couldn’t find a decent coffee on the way. Eventually on the orange river route we found the lodge Norotshama on the Orange River. Lovely breakfast, real coffee before heading for the border and home. I dropped off Anet and Amos around 5 after a good day’s driving.

Memories forever

The dream to ride the Desert Dash that turned into a Namibian adventure. Experiencing it with Anet and Amos, with their Namibian roots, made it even more special. And my Afrikaans so much better!

Namibia is such a vast, stark and beautiful country that just sucks you in for more and I already want to go back.

It has been months of planning to achieve the DD Solo that there was almost a sense of relief and feel that I am able to relax now.

Forever grateful to be able to do what I did and for all the support all around me in every way.

Thank you